In the women’s section of the Shah Ali shrine, popularly known as the Mirpur mazaar, the atmosphere was calm. It’s a space large enough for supplicants to sprawl in, albeit their chief purpose remains invocations and prayers. There is no limit to how much time one can spend there, so some make it a quick jaunt – hasty prayers, a nod to the tomb, exit – while others linger in deeper contemplation – longer prayers, Qur’an recitations, quiet meditations, hushed conversations with their fellow visitors.
Among the serene visitors, a caretaker of sorts played a much more vocal role as one-part enforcer, two-parts host. She made sure nobody hogged time at the narrow look-through to the main hall with the sarcophagus (which only men are allowed to enter) and asked for donations (duly deposited in the assigned box) and tips (given directly to her). This was all done in a manner of polite cajoling: ‘You want something from Baba, give something in return…?’ Baba is Baba Shah Ali, at whose proverbial feet the devotees prostrate themselves, yearn and supplicate in the hope that their wishes will be granted. Does Baba heed these requests? ‘Of course,’ the caretaker answers confidently, clarifying, ‘depends on what kind of wish. You have to be sincere.’
