On the outskirts of Córdoba, 750 kilometres northwest of Buenos Aires, all you see are soy fields – hectare after hectare of short, green plants stretching to the horizon. Over 90 per cent of that soy is genetically modified.

Argentineans tell me it wasn’t always this way. There used to be wheat fields, cattle ranches, forests and scrubland. But since 2006, the area planted with soy has more than tripled. The crop now accounts for more than half of Argentina’s cultivated land and a quarter of exports.