It’s not every day that you get to tread in someone else’s footsteps, but one recent Sunday I found myself doing just that. Kebede is an archivist, and he’d agreed to let me shadow him on one of his trips.

I joined him at a small restaurant located near the Ethiopian National Theatre. We could barely hear ourselves over the loud music as we walked in, even though it was not yet midday and there were no customers in sight. I followed Kebede and his contact, one of many across the city, through the house, down a narrow hall and into a back room.