The CoolStars come on late, and light up the stage. As the lead singer croons, young women in ripped shorts stand up, cheering, and then promptly invade the stage. They throw their arms around the singer and the guitarist – who has very fancy sideburns. The drummer, wearing shades, of course, just beams.

We’re sitting in Bangui’s downtown Mbeye disco, which has a wooden hexagonal dance floor next to the crowded stage. Taking a swig of my beer, I turn to my friend, Eddy, who is from Bangui but now lives in northern CAR and is visiting the capital for a few days to see his family.