The traffic lights are red; they turn green and drivers wait a few seconds before moving forward. The moment’s hesitation is one way of telling a local from someone new to Botswana roads. You never know who might be trying to beat the traffic lights. It might be another driver, but more likely a goat or sheep, or a stray cow escaped from its herder’s eyes. Estimates of Botswana’s cattle population range from two-and-a-half to three million – there are more cows than human beings in Botswana.

An old man is complaining how life has become too expensive.