I once had the misfortune to meet someone who claimed that he found buying a stack of t-shirts from the uber-cheap retail giant Primark to wear for a couple of days each and then discard easier than going through the bother of actually washing his clothes.
I don’t know if it was one of those things said just for effect, but there is a deep disconnect between the image of affordable abundance that fast fashion relies upon and the damage done. From the environmental ravages of growing cheap cotton to the batteries of workers in exploitative conditions, there is a chain of misery behind the bargain. The costs remain mainly in the Global South, the ‘benefits’ mainly in the wealthy countries.
A recent newspaper report says 100 billion such garments are made every year. A chunk of this obscene surplus, after its short life with the purchaser, will not be reused but dumped or sent to be recycled in a place like Panipat in India. There it will be shredded and turned into the coarse $2 blankets that get handed out by aid agencies after disasters – which fall apart after a year. Now even this dismal recycling is threatened by cheap fleece blankets (essentially plastic) from China.
All this is a world away from the shop front. Where does responsibility for this mountain of waste lie – with the unknowing (uncaring?) purchaser, the industrial producer or an entire culture lulled into believing this is the order of things?
Elsewhere in this issue, we welcome back John Schumaker, who takes The Big Story’s focus on waste one logical step further in a chilling exploration of what consumer culture is doing to the human personality.
Dinyar Godrej for the New Internationalist co-operative.
www.newint.org
The dirt on waste. Dinyar Godrej argues that the problems with our throwaway society add up to much more than the sum of individual actions.
How much; disposal; food; plastic; electronic waste; the facts and figures.
Last year, China announced a ban on imports of ‘foreign garbage’. The result? Western stockpiles of used paper and plastic have reached crisis proportions. Adam Liebman on why we need a less rosy notion of what actually happens to our recycling.
Dinyar Godrej explains why the packing industry loves shunting the blame on individual consumers.
Around the world, 15 million people – including children – have little choice but to earn a living from the waste polluting their surroundings. They often work in dangerous conditions, risking their health, sometimes their lives; and are usually relegated to the bottom of the social pecking order, struggling to improve their working conditions.
By supermarkets, that is. Timothy Baster and Isabelle Merminod on the progress of a much-lauded French law.
The mismanagement of Lebanon’s trash has brought citizens onto the streets – and the latest plans are also stoking outrage. But, as Fiona Broom discovers, there are also optimists.
Attempts to solve Cairo’s garbage problems come up against a community whose livelihoods depend on refuse. Hisham Allam reports.
An indigenous movement in Jharkhand is reminding the Indian authorities of their constitutional duty to protect tribal lands. But the government is persecuting tribespeople for standing up. Rohini Mohan reports.
As growth-driven consumer culture spurs on planetary destruction, why don’t we spring into action? Psychologist John F Schumaker situates a frightening erosion of human personality at the heart of the problem.
Art and story by ILYA, with Yohann Koshy.
As 25 November marks the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women, Joni Seager maps the stark reality faced by women in every corner of the world – from Belarus to Brazil.
In 1987, the British government contracted a passenger ferry to act as a floating immigration detention centre for Tamil refugees. Later that year a storm set the ship loose from its moorings. Felix Bazalgette reports on the the little-known story of exodus and empire that paved the way for the Windrush scandal.
Misinformation and fake news in Africa is rife, particularly via social media writes Nanjala Nyabola, but it’s not just a Western problem.
Nilanjana Bhowmick reports on Modi's crackdown on dissent - from activist arrests to vigilante lynchings.
For our rising new world leader segment, Richard Swift profiles the Oxford-educated former playboy cricketer, and now, Prime Minister of Pakistan.
Is conflict in the Arctic drawing closer? Rather than spurring action on climate change, rapidly melting ice is creating more opportunities for geopolitical rivalry.
Spending some time away from Marabá, Dan Baron Cohen discovers unexpected solidarity with the Amazon in a country mired in violence and despair.
Development practitioner Adesuwa Ero urges religious leaders in rural Nigeria to rethink their views on climate change before it's too late.
The Vietnam of yesteryear that many Westerners use as a reference point for the nation is long outdated, writes Bennett Murray.
The British director’s latest film, Peterloo, recounts the 1819 massacre of protesters demanding parliamentary reform in Manchester, UK. He speaks to Sam Thompson about the relationship between cinema, history and politics.
Highlighting the work of artists and photographers from the Majority World
Firoze Manji and Pablo Yanguas go head to head on the thorny topic of development assistance.
Should I take my eight-year-old son to a demonstration outside an immigration detention centre?
Exploitation by tech firms is not inevitable, suggests Vanessa Baird.
Laibach have produced a version of The Sound of Music that you can march to.
A Massacre in Mexico by Anabel Hernández; Talking to North Korea by Glyn Ford; Russia Without Putin by Tony Wood; Crimson by Niviaq Korneliussen, translated by Anna Halagar.
Disobedience directed by Sebastián Lelio; The Workshop directed by Laurent Cantet.
İstikrarlı Hayal Hakikattir by Gaye Su Akyol; Take It by Black Roots.